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King cake, Mardi Gras’ buttery companion to booze and boobs, is growing up.

“I’m originally English, via West Africa and then Detroit for 20 years, and then I moved down here and I heard about this thing, ‘king cake,’ ” explained Tariq Hanna, Sucré’s executive pastry chef. With no prior experience, he began sampling king cakes and came upon a pervasive flaw: “They used a very heavy icing, and it was almost unpalatable because it was so bloody sweet.”

 Hanna’s cake dials down the sugar and is unusually buttery, closer to a Danish than a brioche. He pipes in cream-cheese filling, then covers the cake in a light glaze inspired by his days working at a doughnut shop, and airbrushes it purple and gold. “I’m not doing bacon-tofu-roasted-beet king cakes,” he said. “I’m basically just making a cream-cheese coffee cake. They just happen to be pretty damn spectacular, if I do say so myself.”

Posted 3 months ago — 46 notes